Wednesday, December 9, 2009

Embroidery: Polish Dancewear ...

Barbara currently has an on-going 'project' that began with just an initial interest in embroidery as a legacy from her Polish roots.

Shown below is a section of Barbara's working 'sampler' that ultimately will be a velvet double-bed throw - we're all very jealous of it and wish it was going to lay on one of our beds !!! Every design Barbara creates, is first stitched on this 'sampler' so she has a visual record of her work since the dance costumes (detailed further below) go 'out on the road' when completed (white 'lines' visible are tacking stitches).


When first joining this stitching group, Barbara (living near to West London) made contact with the Mazury Polish Dance Company (formed in 1949 by the Polish Refugees from WW II) to assist with their dance costumes. She was asked to stitch some floral designs on costumes and wanted to perfect a technique that could easily be hand-stitched on pre-assembled adult garments. Being an active member of our group of stitchers, she wanted to learn how to embroider on velvet - a technique essential to the opportunity that had passed her way!

(Images below are samples of Barbara's hand embroidery on actual costumes)

(Below: Design 1 - bodice front & back)

The traditional dance costumes for the region (from Lowicz, 50 miles west of Warsaw), consist of a woven dress and apron for the female dancers and woven trousers and jacket for the male performers. Blouses and shirts are cotton with embroidery on collar, cuffs and sleeves. The bodice of the dress is black velvet, as too is the edging of the dress and apron.

(Below: Design 1 - apron with detail)

Whilst researching origins of the dance costume stitching, Barbara discovered that at the turn of the 20th century, the ladies of Lowicz had begun to embroider the dress bodice to co-ordinate with the blouse. A velvet trim was added to the bottom of the dress and around the apron - to match the bodice in its embroidery design and style. Much of the embroidery at this time (appx. 1930s) was done using Singer sewing machines - these being very popular in the area with Singer actually having reps specifically for that part of Poland.




(Below: Design 2 - dress with apron)




With a preference for hand embroidery, Barbara's objective was to adapt traditional designs to her own style for hand stitching. In her 'Design 1' above, a centre motif of a rose is surrounded with various flowers - the cornflower being the national flower for Poland.

Gradually becoming more adept with the technique and stitching, Barbara progressing with other designs - as Design 2 (left). Here is the dress seen from the front - below the back view with detail of the back bodice.







(Below: Design 2 - dress with detail)


Each dress is very heavy and makes stitching of it time-consuming especially as the garments are totally assembled and lined. Barbara has so far perfected a technique that is utilising a variety of stitching processes (together with embroidery) as well as using several varied needlecraft skills.

As a result of her dancewear embroidery, Barbara has also visited Polish musuems to view original costumes - this in turn will assist her with future stitching and design.

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